• partial_accumen@lemmy.world
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    1 day ago

    Hell, depending on local codes, you might get away with slapping in a nema 6-20 receptacle to make it even easier…

    If you do a receptacle, you’ve got to then do a GFCI. Check out the price difference between a GFCI breaker and one that isn’t. If you hardware the EVSE, you don’t need GFCI because GFCI is built into nearly all EVSE. If we’re doing this exercise to keep low costs, adding GFCI outside of the EVSE jacks up the price.

    • antimidas@sopuli.xyz
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      10 hours ago

      Are they somehow more expensive in the US? 40A 230V rated ones cost something like 30-50 € around here which doesn’t feel that expensive to me. I’ll admit it’s considerably more expensive (~4x the price) than a standard breaker, but it’s still more like a rounding error in overall costs.

      Although EVSE’s projection doesn’t require you to periodically trip the GFCI so it doesn’t get stuck, which is a major plus.

      • partial_accumen@lemmy.world
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        8 hours ago

        Are they somehow more expensive in the US? 40A 230V rated ones cost something like 30-50 € around here which doesn’t feel that expensive to me.

        In my suggested hardwired 240V 20A EV charger the total parts cost is just the regular breaker on the left at about $18.

        The suggested solution you had of putting an outlet in would have parts cost of $119 + the cost of the GFCI breaker, the outlet and the receptacle cover. So that solution is 660% more expensive.

        • antimidas@sopuli.xyz
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          8 hours ago

          Ok, so the US-style GFCI-breakers are indeed a lot more expensive than similarly rated DIN-rail alternatives. TIL